13.15
Just to say that I am in Dumfries and have found a pub with WiFi, however the stupid content blocker they have doesn't allow me to view my own blog - I can write entries but not view them. So I hope they have come out ok ;) Oh and you will be glad to know that I managed to find some more gas - it did take me 4 different camping shops though weirdly.
Monday, 17 August 2009
Day 16
Date: 16/08/09
Time: 20:15
Miles Travelled Today: 40
Location: Powfoot Holiday Park
Weather: Variable
After a good nights sleep, I awoke to find that the sun had gone again and grey clouds were back. The weather stayed variable all day, always pretty windy with occasional showers. A lot of driving again today without too much reward, the scenery is nice without being spectacular and the beaches ok without being inspiring. This area doesn't seem to have the amazing white sandy, clear blue water and sweeps of sand that have characterised other parts; it seems to be more muddy and rocky. There was another seemingly endless search for a campsite again today; this area is also characterised by having 'Holday Parks' as opposed to just campsites. This means that they are all up to twice as expensive as other sites I have stayed in. After rejecting one that was £21.50 (for a patch of grass and shared use of some toilets FFS – cool random plane though) and a few others around that mark, I finally settled on my current location due mostly to tiredness – although the initial cost of £16 actually turned out to be £12.50 as there is only one of me, so not too horrendous. I have felt very tired today, the kind of tired that seems to come from your bones. Whether it is the driving, the camping or a combination of the two I don't know. Although I have loved the trip, I can't say that I won't be happy to stay in a proper bed again and not drive for a bit. I am also really looking forward to meeting up with some uni friends on Wednesday, a couple I haven't seen for a year.
I am actually not that far from my destination on Wednesday (St. Bees) and so am not sure what I will do tomorrow. If I move on, I will leave Scotland as I am very close to the border. It may well depend on the weather. I also need to find a) a WiFi connection and b) a gas canister as my last one is almost empty and cooking will be a bit tricky without it.
Time: 20:15
Miles Travelled Today: 40
Location: Powfoot Holiday Park
Weather: Variable
After a good nights sleep, I awoke to find that the sun had gone again and grey clouds were back. The weather stayed variable all day, always pretty windy with occasional showers. A lot of driving again today without too much reward, the scenery is nice without being spectacular and the beaches ok without being inspiring. This area doesn't seem to have the amazing white sandy, clear blue water and sweeps of sand that have characterised other parts; it seems to be more muddy and rocky. There was another seemingly endless search for a campsite again today; this area is also characterised by having 'Holday Parks' as opposed to just campsites. This means that they are all up to twice as expensive as other sites I have stayed in. After rejecting one that was £21.50 (for a patch of grass and shared use of some toilets FFS – cool random plane though) and a few others around that mark, I finally settled on my current location due mostly to tiredness – although the initial cost of £16 actually turned out to be £12.50 as there is only one of me, so not too horrendous. I have felt very tired today, the kind of tired that seems to come from your bones. Whether it is the driving, the camping or a combination of the two I don't know. Although I have loved the trip, I can't say that I won't be happy to stay in a proper bed again and not drive for a bit. I am also really looking forward to meeting up with some uni friends on Wednesday, a couple I haven't seen for a year.
I am actually not that far from my destination on Wednesday (St. Bees) and so am not sure what I will do tomorrow. If I move on, I will leave Scotland as I am very close to the border. It may well depend on the weather. I also need to find a) a WiFi connection and b) a gas canister as my last one is almost empty and cooking will be a bit tricky without it.
Day 15
Date: 15/08/09
Time: 20:00
Miles Travelled Today: 113
Location: Campsite in Glenluce
Weather: Raining this morning then sunny
When I was thinking about undertaking this trip, my original plan was go to around the whole coastline of Scotland. Then I did a rough and ready roadmap using Google Maps and it came to 2000 miles which I thought was way too much to do in 3-4 weeks so I narrowed it down to just he North and West coasts. Well, today I broke the 2000 mile mark. When I decided to just do the two coasts, I didn't replan the trip, just though 'well that will be less miles'. But, of course, I still had to get to John o'Groats and, even taking the direct route, that is still a lot of miles which I don't think I really factored in. Ah well, no matter. It has meant that I haven't really stayed at one place more than a couple of days which, perhaps with more time or less travelling, I may have done. I haven't helped myself by wanting to travel up and down every little road looking at things, but then that was the point of the trip in the end...
Today was a much much better day than yesterday. It started badly with me still being awake at 2am last night thanks to two sets of noisy neighbours; one set who were camped 6 feet away and and just kept on moaning at each other (no not in that way) for what seemed like hours – do people not understand that there is someone 6 feet away and only two very thin bits of material between us? Added to that was the party caravan a bit further away who seemed to having a great time, lots of laughs and Scottish music. Really loud laughs. At 1.30am. I went through a range of responses up to and including firebombing the caravan, but it was throwing it down and I was warm and comfy so I just stayed where I was and swore to myself. Eventually they got tired and went to bed. This morning I awoke to yet more rain. Eventually, at about 9.30, it seemed to slacken off so I took the opportunity to pack the car (I LOVE my tent), get washed and go. Indeed, as I went further south, the clouds broke up and the sun arrived again and then stayed all day. I headed down to Stranraer and a couple of beaches that I had identified as possibly interesting. The first was in the middle of nowhere to the point where it didn't even justify a name on the map. It was lovely, remote, secluded with only a couple of other people there. To add to that it not only had it's own lighthouse, it had it's own waterfall, gratuitous and over-ambitious shots of which you will find in the photos. The was my second favourite beach on this trip, only beaten by Talin. After a few hours pretending I knew what I was doing with my camera plus lunch spent on this beach, I went to Portpatrick which was only just down the road and I am glad that I did. Finally, a nice little Scottish town, like the other couple that I have liked, this one was a port/harbour. Little brightly coloured houses, several pubs, a harbour, very nice. I then went over to Sandhead which seems like a promising name for someone in search of beaches. There was indeed a long beach there but it was a bit uninteresting, much like the town. Time was marching on and I started to look for a campsite. After rejecting another 'Holiday Park' (15 quid, I don't think so), I ended up driving to the Mull of Galloway, the most southerly point of Scotland to yet another lighthouse (these pictures are for you Emma ;) ). Then it was back past Sandhead, past a random MOD signed bit of coastline and eventually to Glenluce and my current location. It is quite a nice site, mostly static caravans with a 'walled garden' for campers complete with stream. Sleeping near a stream didn't go well last time, lets see...
Time: 20:00
Miles Travelled Today: 113
Location: Campsite in Glenluce
Weather: Raining this morning then sunny
When I was thinking about undertaking this trip, my original plan was go to around the whole coastline of Scotland. Then I did a rough and ready roadmap using Google Maps and it came to 2000 miles which I thought was way too much to do in 3-4 weeks so I narrowed it down to just he North and West coasts. Well, today I broke the 2000 mile mark. When I decided to just do the two coasts, I didn't replan the trip, just though 'well that will be less miles'. But, of course, I still had to get to John o'Groats and, even taking the direct route, that is still a lot of miles which I don't think I really factored in. Ah well, no matter. It has meant that I haven't really stayed at one place more than a couple of days which, perhaps with more time or less travelling, I may have done. I haven't helped myself by wanting to travel up and down every little road looking at things, but then that was the point of the trip in the end...
Today was a much much better day than yesterday. It started badly with me still being awake at 2am last night thanks to two sets of noisy neighbours; one set who were camped 6 feet away and and just kept on moaning at each other (no not in that way) for what seemed like hours – do people not understand that there is someone 6 feet away and only two very thin bits of material between us? Added to that was the party caravan a bit further away who seemed to having a great time, lots of laughs and Scottish music. Really loud laughs. At 1.30am. I went through a range of responses up to and including firebombing the caravan, but it was throwing it down and I was warm and comfy so I just stayed where I was and swore to myself. Eventually they got tired and went to bed. This morning I awoke to yet more rain. Eventually, at about 9.30, it seemed to slacken off so I took the opportunity to pack the car (I LOVE my tent), get washed and go. Indeed, as I went further south, the clouds broke up and the sun arrived again and then stayed all day. I headed down to Stranraer and a couple of beaches that I had identified as possibly interesting. The first was in the middle of nowhere to the point where it didn't even justify a name on the map. It was lovely, remote, secluded with only a couple of other people there. To add to that it not only had it's own lighthouse, it had it's own waterfall, gratuitous and over-ambitious shots of which you will find in the photos. The was my second favourite beach on this trip, only beaten by Talin. After a few hours pretending I knew what I was doing with my camera plus lunch spent on this beach, I went to Portpatrick which was only just down the road and I am glad that I did. Finally, a nice little Scottish town, like the other couple that I have liked, this one was a port/harbour. Little brightly coloured houses, several pubs, a harbour, very nice. I then went over to Sandhead which seems like a promising name for someone in search of beaches. There was indeed a long beach there but it was a bit uninteresting, much like the town. Time was marching on and I started to look for a campsite. After rejecting another 'Holiday Park' (15 quid, I don't think so), I ended up driving to the Mull of Galloway, the most southerly point of Scotland to yet another lighthouse (these pictures are for you Emma ;) ). Then it was back past Sandhead, past a random MOD signed bit of coastline and eventually to Glenluce and my current location. It is quite a nice site, mostly static caravans with a 'walled garden' for campers complete with stream. Sleeping near a stream didn't go well last time, lets see...
Day 14
Date: 14/08/09
Time: 19:30
Miles Travelled Today: 211
Location: Heads of Ayr Holiday Park
Weather: Throwing it down all day
£16.50. £16.50!!!!! That is how much tonight's pitch has cost. Shocking. I am on a 'holiday park' which seems to mean it is biased towards caravans and is expensive. I am pitched (along with a few other tents) in what seems to be the playing field complete with children's play area. Not that any children are playing on it now as it is throwing it down as it has been all day. And not just a little bit of rain, this has been proper go-outside-for-a-minute-and-get-soaked rain, constantly, pretty much from the moment I got up. Ah well, I can't say it wasn't predicted. I have done a lot of driving in these conditions today which wasn't fun but it was more fun than walking around in it! I did get out of the car a few times, once to take a walk through a wood down to the sea shore and also to look at Skipness castle which was quite impressive. With my coat and waterproof trousers on I was pretty dry but, thanks to the wind combined with the rain, it wasn't great. A flavour of what could have been weather-wise, another reason to be thankful for the lovely weather in the first week. Tomorrow is set to be the same, oh what fun.
Scenary-wise, today started well as I came back up towards Tarbert via a B road. I then came across towards Glasgow, skirted around the West side and came down towards Ayr. It was obvious that I was back more in 'civilisation' and that meant the view deteriorated and got lot more built up. The traffic also increased. I am hoping as I head away from this area that things will improve. Although the random Navy warship (no idea what, perhaps a troop carrier?) moored on Gare Loch and then the subsequent Navy base was quite interesting, although they don't exactly invite you to stand around and take photos; so I didn't.
Time: 19:30
Miles Travelled Today: 211
Location: Heads of Ayr Holiday Park
Weather: Throwing it down all day
£16.50. £16.50!!!!! That is how much tonight's pitch has cost. Shocking. I am on a 'holiday park' which seems to mean it is biased towards caravans and is expensive. I am pitched (along with a few other tents) in what seems to be the playing field complete with children's play area. Not that any children are playing on it now as it is throwing it down as it has been all day. And not just a little bit of rain, this has been proper go-outside-for-a-minute-and-get-soaked rain, constantly, pretty much from the moment I got up. Ah well, I can't say it wasn't predicted. I have done a lot of driving in these conditions today which wasn't fun but it was more fun than walking around in it! I did get out of the car a few times, once to take a walk through a wood down to the sea shore and also to look at Skipness castle which was quite impressive. With my coat and waterproof trousers on I was pretty dry but, thanks to the wind combined with the rain, it wasn't great. A flavour of what could have been weather-wise, another reason to be thankful for the lovely weather in the first week. Tomorrow is set to be the same, oh what fun.
Scenary-wise, today started well as I came back up towards Tarbert via a B road. I then came across towards Glasgow, skirted around the West side and came down towards Ayr. It was obvious that I was back more in 'civilisation' and that meant the view deteriorated and got lot more built up. The traffic also increased. I am hoping as I head away from this area that things will improve. Although the random Navy warship (no idea what, perhaps a troop carrier?) moored on Gare Loch and then the subsequent Navy base was quite interesting, although they don't exactly invite you to stand around and take photos; so I didn't.
Friday, 14 August 2009
Day 13
Date: 13/08/09
Time: 21:00
Miles Travelled Today: 72
Location: Machrihanish Campsite
Weather: Mostly cloudy but dry all day
After a beer, a nice dinner, too long spent on the internet chatting to friends and then a good sleep, I woke up this morning ready to get going again. It was great to stay at the B&B and I certainly enjoyed my shower again this morning; it was also good to be able to charge up my camera batteries since I was about half way through my and last second one. After a good breakfast, I packed up and made my way back to Ardrishaig where the owner of the B&B had told me I could find a laundrette. After a little look around, I located it and then spent the next couple of hours washing all of, and then drying most of, my clothes; hopefully this should be the last time before going home.
After looking at timetables, ferry prices (how much to take a car across!) and the weather for Friday and Saturday, I decided to give Islay a miss this time and put it on the list of things to see when I come back. There is a 4 mile walk from the port to the campsite and although today was promised to be at least dry, the next couple of days are supposed to be horrible – I didn't fancy the walk back. So, it was off towards Campbelltown, the coastline was again superb; Scotland just doesn't let up. I stopped at a beach near Kilkenzie, a lovely sweep of sand and enough waves to attract surfers. There were quite a lot of people on the beach, mostly families and, as I sat and watched the surfers, a little girl of no more than 4, came and sat beside me. She was very pretty, red haired and fearless in the way that small children can be. She told me about her dad who was surfing, her brother who was nearby and her mum who was back up the beach, probably wondering who this strange man was who was talking to her daughter, such are the times we live in. Indeed, dad eventually appeared from the surf and had a brief chat with me, very friendly but probably getting a feel for whether I was likely to run off with his daughter. She went back and forward as she played and then came to chat to me again. In the end I actually got quite upset as she reminded me of the two children that I had come to know and love and then loose over the last year; I said goodbye and left before I lost it completely. She gave me a feather which will hopefully stay with me for the rest of the trip. Campbelltown itself was another disappointment, what is it with Scotland and horrible towns? I assume there are some nice places but, apart from Applecross, I have yet to see them, they seem to be uniformly grey and dull. After a quick stop for some fresh food, I made my way out to Machrihanish which is the other end of the beach I had been at earlier. After some time on the beach having a very late lunch and reading, I noticed clouds coming in and, fearing rain, I went back to the campsite I had noticed earlier which was only five minutes away. It is very nice and cheap with all the facilities required (including a cheaper laundrette gah!) and the sound of the sea in the distance. I set about drying the clothes that are not supposed to go in a dryer and organising the back of the car which, after 13 days on the road, had got a little mixed up.
A good day with warm, if a little cloudy, weather and a couple of lovely beaches. I can only hope that the impending weather doesn't arrive tomorrow but we will see. More driving is intended tomorrow, heading back up along a little B road on the other side of this 'spit' of land (see a map for what I mean), I have no idea how far I will get.
Time: 21:00
Miles Travelled Today: 72
Location: Machrihanish Campsite
Weather: Mostly cloudy but dry all day
After a beer, a nice dinner, too long spent on the internet chatting to friends and then a good sleep, I woke up this morning ready to get going again. It was great to stay at the B&B and I certainly enjoyed my shower again this morning; it was also good to be able to charge up my camera batteries since I was about half way through my and last second one. After a good breakfast, I packed up and made my way back to Ardrishaig where the owner of the B&B had told me I could find a laundrette. After a little look around, I located it and then spent the next couple of hours washing all of, and then drying most of, my clothes; hopefully this should be the last time before going home.
After looking at timetables, ferry prices (how much to take a car across!) and the weather for Friday and Saturday, I decided to give Islay a miss this time and put it on the list of things to see when I come back. There is a 4 mile walk from the port to the campsite and although today was promised to be at least dry, the next couple of days are supposed to be horrible – I didn't fancy the walk back. So, it was off towards Campbelltown, the coastline was again superb; Scotland just doesn't let up. I stopped at a beach near Kilkenzie, a lovely sweep of sand and enough waves to attract surfers. There were quite a lot of people on the beach, mostly families and, as I sat and watched the surfers, a little girl of no more than 4, came and sat beside me. She was very pretty, red haired and fearless in the way that small children can be. She told me about her dad who was surfing, her brother who was nearby and her mum who was back up the beach, probably wondering who this strange man was who was talking to her daughter, such are the times we live in. Indeed, dad eventually appeared from the surf and had a brief chat with me, very friendly but probably getting a feel for whether I was likely to run off with his daughter. She went back and forward as she played and then came to chat to me again. In the end I actually got quite upset as she reminded me of the two children that I had come to know and love and then loose over the last year; I said goodbye and left before I lost it completely. She gave me a feather which will hopefully stay with me for the rest of the trip. Campbelltown itself was another disappointment, what is it with Scotland and horrible towns? I assume there are some nice places but, apart from Applecross, I have yet to see them, they seem to be uniformly grey and dull. After a quick stop for some fresh food, I made my way out to Machrihanish which is the other end of the beach I had been at earlier. After some time on the beach having a very late lunch and reading, I noticed clouds coming in and, fearing rain, I went back to the campsite I had noticed earlier which was only five minutes away. It is very nice and cheap with all the facilities required (including a cheaper laundrette gah!) and the sound of the sea in the distance. I set about drying the clothes that are not supposed to go in a dryer and organising the back of the car which, after 13 days on the road, had got a little mixed up.
A good day with warm, if a little cloudy, weather and a couple of lovely beaches. I can only hope that the impending weather doesn't arrive tomorrow but we will see. More driving is intended tomorrow, heading back up along a little B road on the other side of this 'spit' of land (see a map for what I mean), I have no idea how far I will get.
Thursday, 13 August 2009
Day 12
Date: 12/08/09
Time: 19:30
Miles Travelled Today: 137
Location: Struan House B&B in Tarbert
Weather: Sunny with clouds
16:45
How difficult can it be to get a bed for the night in Scotland? It turns out to be very stupidly difficult if you are in Fort William or Oban. There isn't a single room to be found, its utterly insane. For gods sake, I could be home in 5 hours and sleep in my own bed, something I am very tempted to do right now.
Some birthday this is turning out to be.
19:30
Well, that was fun. It seems that everyone in Scotland is staying on a B&B! After failing to find anything in both Fort William and Oban, I drove and drove heading towards Cambeltown, continously searching for B&Bs (or even campsites!). Eventually, I came to Tarbert and had a little drive around and found this B&B. It is a bit more expensive than I wanted but at that point I didn't care. It turned out to be lovely with internet access and an amazing shower, the Niagra falls of the shower world. It was fantastic to have a shower that lasted longer than 5 minutes, was more than a dribble and that was lovely and clean. A beer in a local pub and then a meal out will be followed by an internet fix and then, hopefully, a nice sleep.
Fort William itself was unimpressive and Oban was not much better. Beautiful scenary (there is a surprise) on the route down towards Tarbert but I was too hacked off to stop and take pictures so no photos on this post. Hopefully tomorrow will be an easier day.
Time: 19:30
Miles Travelled Today: 137
Location: Struan House B&B in Tarbert
Weather: Sunny with clouds
16:45
How difficult can it be to get a bed for the night in Scotland? It turns out to be very stupidly difficult if you are in Fort William or Oban. There isn't a single room to be found, its utterly insane. For gods sake, I could be home in 5 hours and sleep in my own bed, something I am very tempted to do right now.
Some birthday this is turning out to be.
19:30
Well, that was fun. It seems that everyone in Scotland is staying on a B&B! After failing to find anything in both Fort William and Oban, I drove and drove heading towards Cambeltown, continously searching for B&Bs (or even campsites!). Eventually, I came to Tarbert and had a little drive around and found this B&B. It is a bit more expensive than I wanted but at that point I didn't care. It turned out to be lovely with internet access and an amazing shower, the Niagra falls of the shower world. It was fantastic to have a shower that lasted longer than 5 minutes, was more than a dribble and that was lovely and clean. A beer in a local pub and then a meal out will be followed by an internet fix and then, hopefully, a nice sleep.
Fort William itself was unimpressive and Oban was not much better. Beautiful scenary (there is a surprise) on the route down towards Tarbert but I was too hacked off to stop and take pictures so no photos on this post. Hopefully tomorrow will be an easier day.
Wednesday, 12 August 2009
Day 11
Date: 11/08/09
Time: 20:30
Miles Travelled Today:
Location: Silversands campsite near Mallaig
Weather: Rainy all day but has stopped now
What a difference a few hours makes. I went to bed with a classic sunset with clear skies and woke to rain and dark grey clouds which basically stayed until about 5pm. I had decided to stay more or less in the area today before moving on tomorrow. After exploring Mallaig, which took about 10 minutes - it is basically a port with a few B&Bs, a couple of seafood restaurants and a tourist information place – I decided to head down towards Strontium as I had spotted a couple of potential beaches. To cut a long story short, the drive was lovely again but the beaches themselves where disappointing, not helped by the continuous rain. After a delicious mini mushroom quiche from a random little bakery, I headed back towards Mallaig and had a look at Morar and Morar loch which was, again, beautiful. By this time I was knackered and headed back to the tent. The rain had finally stopped and so I was able to take a walk along the beach. It is truely lovely here and I just wish the sun had stayed.
The plan for tomorrow is to head back to Fort William. It is my birthday and I intend to treat myself to a real bed, cooked breakfast and, possibly, a bath. I am also going to go out for dinner and so would like to find a B&B near a restaurant so I can walk there and back. The Scottish tourist industry seems to be doing fine as almost all the B&Bs I pass are full. So, in order to find as many as possible in one place and near restaurants, I have decided to go to the nearest biggest place which is Fort William. I also hope to find somewhere, anywhere (!) with WiFi so I can upload the last few days worth of entries and photos. Here's hoping!
Time: 20:30
Miles Travelled Today:
Location: Silversands campsite near Mallaig
Weather: Rainy all day but has stopped now
What a difference a few hours makes. I went to bed with a classic sunset with clear skies and woke to rain and dark grey clouds which basically stayed until about 5pm. I had decided to stay more or less in the area today before moving on tomorrow. After exploring Mallaig, which took about 10 minutes - it is basically a port with a few B&Bs, a couple of seafood restaurants and a tourist information place – I decided to head down towards Strontium as I had spotted a couple of potential beaches. To cut a long story short, the drive was lovely again but the beaches themselves where disappointing, not helped by the continuous rain. After a delicious mini mushroom quiche from a random little bakery, I headed back towards Mallaig and had a look at Morar and Morar loch which was, again, beautiful. By this time I was knackered and headed back to the tent. The rain had finally stopped and so I was able to take a walk along the beach. It is truely lovely here and I just wish the sun had stayed.
The plan for tomorrow is to head back to Fort William. It is my birthday and I intend to treat myself to a real bed, cooked breakfast and, possibly, a bath. I am also going to go out for dinner and so would like to find a B&B near a restaurant so I can walk there and back. The Scottish tourist industry seems to be doing fine as almost all the B&Bs I pass are full. So, in order to find as many as possible in one place and near restaurants, I have decided to go to the nearest biggest place which is Fort William. I also hope to find somewhere, anywhere (!) with WiFi so I can upload the last few days worth of entries and photos. Here's hoping!
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